Making your own clothes is not difficult. Commercial patterns will lead you to believe that it is. You just need some basic shapes and a few easy techniques to start making clothes you really want to wear.
Part 1 – Download and Sew Your Pattern
Printing, cut out and assemble your pattern.
Part 1 – Printing, cut out and assemble your pattern.
It’s not just about sewing. Learning to sew is a means to an end. Following on from Part 1 – Download Your Pattern – this video shows you how to layout your pattern and cut out your fabric pieces. Commercial patterns include quite complicated plans for cutting out for various fabric widths. There is no need for this. Just follow the basic rules and use your common sense.
Learn to Sew – Part 2 – Cutting Out
Part 2 – How to layout your pattern pieces on your fabric
About the fabric grain and the selvedge. How to economise on your fabric layout. Equipment for cutting out. The measuring gauge is called a 14 in 1 guide or a hemline guide – I’m always being asked!
Part 3 – Transfer Markings
Part 3 – Transferring markings from pattern to fabric
The different methods, tracing, marker pens, tailors tacks. Don’t forget that snipping into the seam allowance is also one of the best methods for markings in seam the seam allowance.
Part 4 – More Ways to Transfer Markings
Part 4 – More about transferring markings from paper pattern to the fabric. Using tailors chalk. Using tailor’s tacks.
Part 5 – Inserting an Invisible Zip
Part 5 – How to insert an invisible zip often referred to as a concealed zip
This is very much for the novice sewer and takes you through every step and is a full-proof method. I explain the difference between a standard zipper foot and one especially for use with the invisible zip. Zip placement. You never stitch an invisible zip to the end. Always buy one about 2″ longer than the opening. You can just pin rather than baste – see Make a Dress 1 and 2. Invisible zips are always inserted before stitching the seam.
Part 6 – Inserting an Invisible Zip continued
Part 6 – Continuing with inserting the invisible zip. Sewing the second side of the zip
Making sure you have an exactly aligned waistline seam. Again, pin rather than baste if you are confident. Two lines of stitching on each side. Firstly an anchoring row then the row of machine stitching close to the teeth. Complete the seam below the zip. How to line up the stitching for a neat transition from seam to zip. The zip will just become invisible!